And just like that, we’re done. I woke this morning at 3:00 a.m. to the sound of flat water moving past the hull, and a blissful lack of pings from […]

For the past month, we’ve been living in an enormous machine, transported and sustained by massive, magical contraptions that hum and whir in the mysterious caverns beneath our feet. These […]

At Pole, Megan used to say, “always” meant two seasons. Something happens two years in a row and it will etch itself into the institutional memory as having always been […]

The half-moon watches, standing low on edge in the midnight sky as the swell takes us. Our bow rises in slow motion, geometry pitching the bridge backward as she comes […]

A hundred miles north of the King George Island on our homeward run there’s no question that we’re back in the Drake. The deck is pitching enough to make walking […]

Christopher surveys the first plate I was just finishing up dinner, dipping the last of my southern-style chicken tenders into what was left of my bowl of tomato soup when […]

At Pole, the period beginning the middle of January was called The Season of Pain. Summer folks had been on station for close to three months, and were smelling the […]

Last night (or mid-afternoon, for folks on a diurnal schedule), we turned the corner at station 2-14, just past the tip of Graham Land, at the western entrance to the […]

Somewhere beyond the sound of splintering ice and the streetcar traffic in San Diego, there’s a noise, burrowing into my head. It’s sweet and melodious, like a harp gently played, […]