It’s 2 a.m. and you’ve hit the wall. No, it’s not actually 2 a.m., and the only physical wall nearby is the steel bulkhead of your bunk, behind which the […]

[Sorry about spamming all of you with this damned post – still trying to get the actual text to show up. The sad thing is that it’s not even a […]

Okay, for the record, I am never never never ever swimming in the ocean again. Because the cockroaches from space are the least worrisome of the freaky things that we […]

Given that it’s winter in the Antarctic, you’d expect there to be something like three and a half minutes of sun each day, right? Well, that’s what I expected, but […]

If I wanted to turn a phrase, I’d be tempted to say I’m on the top of the bottom of the world. It’s 10 p.m. and I’m up a couple […]

The Sixth Edition of the Admiralty Sailing Directions describes Deception Island as one of the largest and most spectacular crater islands in the world. It has sandy beaches, breathtaking ice […]

We’ve turned the corner into the Bransfield Strait and are making our way east in the lee of the South Shetland Islands. Pancake ice is pretty thick now, and every […]

This morning I was going to finally write a bit about the ship, to give you all a sense of what our little mobile home for the next month is […]

I was at Pole when I discovered the joys of a split sleep schedule. Rather than trying to fit in all seven or eight hours of a night’s sleep in […]

Alec and Tom deploy the first CTD Promethazine – hands down. First dose yesterday hadn’t done a damned thing for me, so I was kind of despairing, just trying to […]