You’re always reluctant to talk about the dream, because somehow it stops being real when you do. That’s why you try so hard to hang onto these liminal moments: because […]

At 78S 168W, we have come out on the other side. We’re still a day shy of the antimeridian and international date line, but almost on cue as we approached […]

We have sifted silently across the gray, Stygian waters of the Amundsen Sea into another world. For days an unchanging gray murk of sky betrayed no hint of day or […]

We have, for all intents and purposes, fallen off the edge of the map. I know Captain Brandon has better resources up on the bridge, but down here on main […]

Hey there – I didn’t mean to leave you all hanging there on New Year’s Eve. But from Marguerite Bay, our course takes us straight west nearly 100 degrees of […]

Blame it on the Pablo improbability vortex: a last-minute invitation ashore by the Brits at Rothera Station for New Year’s Eve tea…and a 5k. Who could say no? I don’t […]

Oh, what a difference a few hours makes! Almost on cue as we crossed 66 33’ south, the sky darkened and sea ice swirled out to meet us. By the […]