We have sifted silently across the gray, Stygian waters of the Amundsen Sea into another world. For days an unchanging gray murk of sky betrayed no hint of day or […]

We have, for all intents and purposes, fallen off the edge of the map. I know Captain Brandon has better resources up on the bridge, but down here on main […]

Hey there – I didn’t mean to leave you all hanging there on New Year’s Eve. But from Marguerite Bay, our course takes us straight west nearly 100 degrees of […]

Blame it on the Pablo improbability vortex: a last-minute invitation ashore by the Brits at Rothera Station for New Year’s Eve tea…and a 5k. Who could say no? I don’t […]

Oh, what a difference a few hours makes! Almost on cue as we crossed 66 33’ south, the sky darkened and sea ice swirled out to meet us. By the […]

There is an invisible line out there, irrelevant except for purposes of astronomy and bragging rights. The Antarctic Circle lies at 66 33’45.7” south of the Equator and marks the […]

It always feels a little like that bit in Shakespeare in Love where the theater manager asserts that everything is going to work out. It’s all going to hell, and […]

Well, that didn’t take long. The groove is back. Up the gangplank, through the main hatch and down the steps. Familiar faces everywhere: Jullie, Tom, Mackenzie and Ken are hanging […]

​You’d think by now there’d be a pattern to these departures. What, you’re headed to Antarctica again? Yeah. It’ll be my fourth time on the ship; a month-long resupply and […]