Given that it’s winter in the Antarctic, you’d expect there to be something like three and a half minutes of sun each day, right? Well, that’s what I expected, but […]

If I wanted to turn a phrase, I’d be tempted to say I’m on the top of the bottom of the world. It’s 10 p.m. and I’m up a couple […]

The Sixth Edition of the Admiralty Sailing Directions describes Deception Island as one of the largest and most spectacular crater islands in the world. It has sandy beaches, breathtaking ice […]

We’ve turned the corner into the Bransfield Strait and are making our way east in the lee of the South Shetland Islands. Pancake ice is pretty thick now, and every […]

This morning I was going to finally write a bit about the ship, to give you all a sense of what our little mobile home for the next month is […]

I was at Pole when I discovered the joys of a split sleep schedule. Rather than trying to fit in all seven or eight hours of a night’s sleep in […]

Alec and Tom deploy the first CTD Promethazine – hands down. First dose yesterday hadn’t done a damned thing for me, so I was kind of despairing, just trying to […]

“So… when people get seasick – when does that start happening?” “Oh, a bunch of folks are already horizontal. If you’re not feeling it yet, you’ll probably be fine.” Kim’s […]

I misread the faint glow on the display of my clock this morning, and found myself awake and dressed at 5:45. Not that I was surprised – as tired as […]