SUMO Wrestling
Morning brought a miserable drizzle, but the flattest seas we’ve seen since we left port. It was time to get to work. First order of the cruise was to get […]
Morning brought a miserable drizzle, but the flattest seas we’ve seen since we left port. It was time to get to work. First order of the cruise was to get […]
Another day, another bout of nausea, another look at the weather to see if we can unload some of honking big pieces of science sitting on the back deck. Yeah, […]
I promise, I am not making any of this up. Because I couldn’t make this sort of thing up: we’ve broken off our original deployment plan to hunt down and […]
Yesterday? Yesterday morning was a slow gray haze of nausea, soda crackers, naps and waking thinking, briefly and quite mistakenly, that I was feeling better. I mean, the weather wasn’t […]
I’d really hoped that the Promethazine was going to get me through it. I’d hoped, at least, that we’d make it to open sea. But we hadn’t even rounded the […]
An enormous white cross on the distant mountaintop marks the southernmost point of the continent proper, where the spine of the Andes subsides and finally succumbs to the Southern Ocean. […]
Punta Arenas revisited had lost none of the charm it held in my imagination. The elegant but practical and understated architecture of a Latin outpost, the stunning seascape, and the […]
I’m not a believer in auspicious beginnings. I mean, I like it when things go smoothly, but it always puts me on my guard. If anything, a difficult start comforts […]
“Southbound again – don’t know if I’m going or leaving home…” -Dire Straits They say that you go to Antarctica the first time because you’re curious; you go the second […]
At six thirty a.m. in the lobby of the Staybridge Inn, it’s not hard to figure out who your peeps are. Half the folks shuffling through the featureless, beige breakfast […]