A small portrait of Hemingway, printed on handmade paper, scowls down at me from the wall above my office desk. Or maybe it’s not a scowl – maybe it’s just […]

The sky finally opened up our last day in Havana, quenching – at least briefly – the withering heat that had been one of the few constants of this trip. […]

Trinidad, on the south central coast of Cuba, reminds me of one of those Greek Islands frequented by massive cruise ships: charming antiquity engulfed daily by waves of camera toting […]

Eastbound along the narrow spine of the country on the national highway. We’re headed to Trinidad, a day late because, as I understand it, our reservations were co-opted by another […]

First the embargo Then you hail my cab and bail Damned Americans It’s somewhere after midnight, and the third meeting of the Havana Haiku Club is in full swing out […]

The Cubans we’ve spoken with so far have been quite unreserved about their feelings on the fruits of the revolution. “We’ve been figuring it out as we go along,” is […]

  “Solo bebemos, por favor.” Our waiter on the rooftop bar at Ambos Mundos thinks for a moment before deciding to rescue me from Bad Spanish and suggests an alternative […]

Group travel has always been a bit of a challenge for me. No matter how wonderful one’s traveling companions, how comforting the safety in numbers, there always feel to be […]