We’ve turned the corner into the Bransfield Strait and are making our way east in the lee of the South Shetland Islands. Pancake ice is pretty thick now, and every […]

This morning I was going to finally write a bit about the ship, to give you all a sense of what our little mobile home for the next month is […]

I was at Pole when I discovered the joys of a split sleep schedule. Rather than trying to fit in all seven or eight hours of a night’s sleep in […]

Alec and Tom deploy the first CTD Promethazine – hands down. First dose yesterday hadn’t done a damned thing for me, so I was kind of despairing, just trying to […]

“So… when people get seasick – when does that start happening?” “Oh, a bunch of folks are already horizontal. If you’re not feeling it yet, you’ll probably be fine.” Kim’s […]

I misread the faint glow on the display of my clock this morning, and found myself awake and dressed at 5:45. Not that I was surprised – as tired as […]

In the old part of Punta Arenas there is a town square, an elegant tree-lined plaza dominated by a statue of Magellan. Seated natives flank the pedestal below the towering […]

Well, technically, a ship. What’s the difference? I asked our skipper, Captain Paoni, and he says that a “ship” is anything big enough to lift a boat onto. But he […]